The goal is to create a fully populated PCB like this one: Following board construction, you should run through the electrical tests outlined in the next section before applying power. When the screws are turned in, this will provide electrical contact with the enclosure. Very long cables will introduce ringing into light waveforms with fast edges!
This configuration is a standard method for driving LEDs because the relationship between current and LED irradiance is smooth and monotonic. Measurements were performed a single Osram golden dragon LED. The following traces are the same as the previous ones except that the amplified photodiode was used to provide optical feedback. Additionally, all through hole components (e.g. power jack, BNC connectors, etc) will be populated later.
Each board has an address (0 through 3) that is defined by two solder jumpers and the location of a ferrite chip. Locate the large white square surrounding the exposed copper pad indicating the heatsink mounting location. Hit then with a hot air gun or pass a lighter underneath them to shrink them into place over the solder joints. Power indicator LED turns on. DC Levels Using a multimeter, probe the 12V, 2.5V, -5V, and -1.25V test points 12V good -5V good -1.25V good While probing the 2.5V test point, use a ESD-safe screwdriver on the trimpot to get exactly 2.5V. Seal the pot with a dab of hot-glue. Generate the optical power specified by the h * mW level that is specified by the MAX POWER dial.